Today I set off from my B&B after a pleasant and simple breakfast
courtesy of Marius, the owner. Great coffee, some bread and a donut,
cheese and prociutto and juice...actually much more than I normally
eat in the morning. Good thing though since I walked for almost 7
hours...

I got my first glimpse of the Basilica of St. Peter and a closer look
at the Castel as I walked across the Ponte Sant Angelo. The Tiber is
pretty near this part. I wandered through the Piazza Navona with its
Bernini fountains and the piazza of the Pantheon, half shrouded in
scaffolding, meandering my way towards the Bishops Office for US
Visitors to the Vatican where I picked up tickets to all the papal
masses for Friday-Sunday.

The nun who helped me was very sweet, though warned me I'd need to
arrive at least 2 hours early if I wanted to actually sit in the
Basilica during mass. Luckily I'm 5 minutes away, so besides waiting,
that won't be much of a problem. And after all the walking I did
today, sitting for 4 hours will be fine by me.

After securing my tix, I jogged back to the Campo de Fiori and picked
up a panini and an orange for a picnic lunch. I spied the restaurant
we ate at 9 years ago where I first had carbonara, and listened to a
jazz quartet play under the hooded statue of Bruno. My lunch cost me
€3,24.

I wandered north back thru Piazza Navona, past many many small
chuches, the Ara Pacis in its very modern glass building, and up to
Piazza del Popolo with its obelisk and twin churches. Then I got lost,
and wouldn't be the last time I got turned around today. I needed to
get up the hill to Galleria Borghese for my 1pm reservation. It was
12:05. A large brick wall and a hill in my way. I wandered south to
the Spanish Steps then backtracked up to the Pincio then into the
gardens but on the opposite side of the park from the gallery. By the
time I got there (12:50) I was tired and sweating profusely. All the
time I noticed how bundled everyone was in their fur-trimmed winter
coats and leather jackets and chic scarves despite the mid 60s heat
and full sun, while I had stripped down to my short sleeves and was
shiny with sweat.

No matter: Bernini awaited. I've never been huge on marble sculpture
but his David (very much in action, vs. Michelangelo's staid pensive
one) and his Apollo and Daphne are just mesmerizing. Catching such
action in hard stone is just amazing. The Caravaggios with all their
wrinkles are also fun. And the palazzo that houses them is just
lovely. I was particularly taken with the aviary with its mesh domes
and formal gardens.

I then sat myself down in what could only be described as a glade with
wildflowers and ate and rested. I wandered through the park, spying
several outdoor cinemas, a merry go round, and many bicyclists and
joggers. And a group of Spanish teenagers on segways. Then I got lost
again trying to find the Spanish Steps again, darn that brick wall!

By the time I found them, every tourist in the city was there,
clogging the steps and the street below. Rushing past designer
boutiques and wary of pickpockets, I crossed back over the Ponte
Cavour and found my way home to discover the ginormous blister that
had formed on the bottom of my heel but didn't feel until I removed my
shoe. Ouchers! Luckily I have blister patches that work really well.

I'm de-sweating and am about to go off in search of nearby pizza and
gelato then maybe some people watching before early bedtime.

What with all my walking yesterday (with a 12 lb pack) and today, I
wouldn't be surprised if I lost some weight on this trip. Or maybe
I'll at least break even with the gelato.

More tomorrow, including my first atte

I'm ensconsed in my room in Rome after traveling for 15 hours. I am so tired. But after a quick nap earlier I've forced myself to stay up so that I can get over my jet lag.

It was a pretty uneventful day besides being rerouted to Seattle-Paris-Rome on Air France, which was probably an upgrade overall. On the flight to Paris I sat next to an older Asian woman named Moi, who was on her way to Madagascar to see the lemurs. Last year she tracked gorillas in the jungle. She's quite the world traveler: sometimes with her husband, quite often on her own since he hates to fly.

At Charles de Gaulle, I met back up with Pam from Redmond, whom I'd met before boarding in Seattle. Pam just quit her job at Microsoft and will be in Italy for a month and then France next month. She too was traveling solo though will meet her parents here in Rome and travel with them for the next 2 weeks. We kept each other company making our way from the airport and into the city by train and metro. We're hoping to meet back up tomorrow for dinner.

So I don't feel so alone so far. There are plenty solo women travelers out there and I noticed more while waiting for my B&B owners to arrive (they were at lunch when I got here, I sat in the piazza and people watched for 45 minutes). And everyone I met today was friendly and helpful.

I've spent the past two hours eating up the daily recount of many world travels, especially two separate week-long recent trips to Rome (one of them during Holy Week). I'm much more excited now about the possibilities of the city, the visual splash of the architecture and the food and the street life, and just being in Rome!

Fun, fun reading and great photos at www.wired2theworld.com

And her food/garden/everything blog at www.formerchef.com

I'll be sipping vino rosso in Roma a week from today! Ergh... that is if Catholics drink wine during Holy Week?


Obviously I haven't been the most devout Catholic the past year+ and still not sure what I'm being called to do about it, but a week at the center of the Catholic church can't do me much harm, can it? The last time I was at the Vatican I saw Michelangelo's Pieta and climbed the dome of the Basilica, but to be honest don't really remember feeling very churchy about being there. It was one more thing to see in a long line of Roman ruins and piazzas.

Next week should feel pretty churchy though, it being the most sacred time of year and the most important holy day on the entire Christian calendar. I'm quite willing to forget my year of religious uncertainty, keeping my progressive Catholic leanings to myself, and embrace the tradition and ceremony that I grew up with, things that will always remain beautiful and special to me, despite how much I might question why we do them. It's like why do we put up a Christmas tree every year, or eat turkey on a certain day, or blow out candles on a cake, or light fireworks in the summer, or clink our glasses together before we drink? Because even at the most impersonal and meaningless level, they're great traditions and customs and we can gather around them and they're beautiful ways to celebrate a year, a day, a moment. I could see these same traditions and customs within my church the same way: maybe I've lost the exact meaning behind some things, but I still appreciate them for their familiarity and beauty. And most of all I appreciate that people on the other side of the world who speak a different language from me know and appreciate these same traditions.

So I'm looking forward to temporarily becoming part of a freakishly huge and probably quite often, very patience-trying, community for a week. If the crowds become too much though, who's to say I can't escape to some other hill town for awhile? Nothing, absolutely nothing, is stopping me from going where the moment takes me. Carpe diem.

After the insanity of Easter in Rome, I'm looking forward to abandoning myself to the glories of the Tuscan countryside and to the world wonder that is Italian gelato. Every single freaking day.

And amen to that.

Shopping. Okay so I sort of gave up on the no-shopping-whatsoever deal. Not to say that I've been buying things left and right. I've been good compared to myself a year ago. I buy fairly conscientiously nowadays, which was the goal.

However, that might all go out the window on Sunday when Target starts selling Liberty of London. Watch out Baby Smalls, Auntie Chris has an itch to buy you some super-cute floral smocked dresses (and maybe a floral umbrella and some mugs for herself)!



Liberty of London fabric is *Gorgeous* and I stood at the fabric store a few weeks ago trying to decide if I really could spend $14 on a *quarter* of a yard. Eeek! I couldn't do it. But being at Target, this just might be affordable.

AB and Seeeester have brought their blog back, this time to count down to Baby Smalls' arrival...in 87 days! Woot!

www.knitsandfiddles.com

Opening the 2010-11 season at the 5th Avenue Theater!

I was having dinner with my friend, Neighbor C a few weeks ago, to celebrate her birthday. We had dinner with C's friend, M, who like us, shares a strong love of traveling, and has seen quite a bit of the world. We were talking about Italy (ah, Italy!) and how much they both enjoyed Rome. C had spent 2 months in Rome a couple of summers ago in a writing program; she wrote during the day and wandered in the hot afternoons and evenings. M has been to Rome several times, and always finds reasons to go back.

La dolce vita.


I, on the other hand, have a sort of apathetic memory of Rome. Rome was where we spent our evenings in search of CNN in the days following September 11th in 2001, trying to understand exactly what was happening back home, and not really understanding any of it. Rome was where we wandered old ruins and pretended to be gladiators (Russell Crowe fresh and tasty in our minds), ate Chinese food (because we were starting to get a little homesick and wanted some Asian food), and became extremely bitter (to this day!) because we didn't make it to the Vatican museum to see the Sistine Chapel. Rome was where we forgot to get off the bus at the right stop, and where we looked like a Gap advertisement in the middle of St. Peter's Square, all four of us wearing black and khaki. Rome had some pretty tasty gelato and some fabulous fabulous fountains and the brightest lightening storm and heaviest downpour we'd ever seen. And half of our photos of the city got lost in a package we sent to Seattle midway through the trip--thereby making those memories even more distant and hazy.


All roads lead to Rome.

So we're chatting about our memories of Rome, and C drops the bomb on me: she just got an email for some super cheap airfare to Rome! Italy in the spring? Yes please! And so I got this seed in my head that maybe Rome could be in the cards...except that the airfare was for the beginning of March and I'd just passed on going to the Philippines with my family because it was supposedly expensive and I also couldn't leave work for 2 weeks just then. So I sort of passed it off as a whim. EXCEPT, I put myself on a Rick Steves tour waiting list for Rome the first week of April...JUST IN CASE. Ha. Maybe I'd just subconsciously sealed the deal even though I told myself I wasn't making any commitments by putting myself on a waiting list.

2 weeks later, the Rick Steves tour office is calling me to see if I'd like to join them. In Rome! For a whole week, beginning at Easter! And that got my brain turning again.

Easter in Rome--how cool would that be? The biggest day in the Christian world and I could be right there in the thick holiness and grandeur of it all! I debated and debated and debated. I called C and she convinced and I kept hemming and hawing. I talked to my family and they encouraged me to just do it: I'm fortunate to not have responsibilities or commitments that might tie me down, to have a job and money that allows me to do it: if I want it, I can do it. I consulted the

The house I stayed at in SW Portland was right on the river and quite cozy and pretty affordable, like staying at a hotel but a whole apartment. I found myself entranced by how it was decorated: modern beach cottage, full of textures:

I took the weekend off and headed down to Portland. It was great seeing a different part of the city, spending time with an old friend, and eating, shopping (yes, shopping--more on that in a post later, I think), and walking.

First and most importantly, the food:

Homemade Onion-Chard-Gruyere Panade via Tea & Cookies via Orangette via Zuni Cafe:



Toro Bravo:





Petite Provence:





Saint Cupcake:



Walking Portland: I did quite a bit of walking this weekend, which was good, considering all the stuff I ate. One of the places I liked the best though was discovering Elk Rock Garden at the Bishop's Close in south Portland, near where I stayed. I first heard about it on Alicia's blog and is in my Portland Hill Walks book, which, well I guess I also heard about on Alicia's blog. I'd love to go back when the magnolias and wisteria are in bloom. Spring is definitely already springing here in the Northwest though:

"Women like looking at a view; men don't." And he thumped with his fists like a naughty child, and turned to his son, saying, "George, persuade them!"

"It's so obvious they should have the rooms," said the son. "There's nothing else to say."

--A Room with a View, E.M. Forster

Started experimenting with printing on fabric this weekend:



More crafting on Flickr.

So pretty, right?


So why have I hated them for 30 years? I feel like there are certain foods that my parents totally ruined for us as kids by mixing them with bitter vegetables. Growing up in the United States never really adapted us to the Filipino taste palette, despite how much we had it. Sure we like a good adobo, but all that stewed bitter vegetables ruined things like squash, beans, and mustard greens for me. As an adult I find myself realizing that all of those are fabulous, just not mixed together with bitter melon.

Lentils actually never showed up on our table. But they look pretty similar to mung beans, which, growing up, were mixed with bitter melon and shrimp heads. And one of my first experiences with lentils was just not a happy one, so I figured: me + lentils = blah.

Recently though, lentils have been my friend. I feel satisfied after eating them. I like how petite they are and how they come in many pretty colors. And how you can fancy them up with spices or throw them into something as homey as chicken broth. After eating a whole pot of savory lentil soup this week, with pearled barley and this soft buttery texture, with carrots and onions soaking happily, I'm happy to say that my memories of bitter melon are a distant memory. It also doesn't hurt that soup is even better with a crusty baguette by your side.

So I guess I never really announced here that I'm going to be an auntie again! My Seeeeeeeeeester and AB are expecting Baby Smalls sometime in June. Our family is pretty excited to have another little one running around. I think they find out this week if it's a boy or a girl. I'm hoping for a nephew since I have two wonderful nieces already, but boy or girl, Baby Smalls will welcomed with lots of love. Actually it feels like everyone is pregnant right now, I know 3 babies expected sometime in the next few months, including Lady Susan & Mr. F's, who will make an appearance by early spring.


I've brainstorming crafty things the past few weeks, especially baby things of course. I'm especially excited about printing my own fabric--I bought Printing by Hand with some Christmas money. I find that I'm attracted to designing my own things lately rather than following patterns very closely. The printing by hand especially I'm excited about because it's not something I've done very much of, but combines things I already love doing: sewing and printing/stamping. It'll be fun to have new small ones to make fun things for.

I think in my last post I stated that 2009 was "a crapper of a year," but on second thought I went back through and found some things that were worth re-appreciating:

1. Favorite book read in 2009: A Homemade Life by Molly Wizenberg
Wow, somehow I think I forgot to blog about this. Hands down my favorite read this year was Orangette's fantabulous book, A Homemade Life. Part recipe book, part memoir--just like her wonderful blog, which unfortunately has been on hiatus of late as they've worked on their new and yummy restaurant--the book is full of laughs, tears, tummy growlings, and leg warmers. Funny story: during the holidays I get together with some high school/college friends and we do a book exchange. Before exchanging books, I was asked what my favorite book was this year, and I gushed about Molly's book. Cut to 10 minutes later and I'm unwrapping a book and it's none other than A Homemade Life. Friend L was silently chuckling about it the entire time, knowing the book was in the pile. (Also L's favorite book of the year.) Goes to show how great this book is. Do please go out and buy it and love it as much as I did.

2. Favorite music discovered in 2009: Blind Pilot
These Portland-area, bicycle-riding, acoustic-toting musicians create music that's quietly addicting. I managed to get my brother hooked on these guys too. I like pretty much every song on their album, and it's perfect for a laid back summer day with a glass of iced tea. Mmmmm, can't you feel the sunlight filtering through the leaves right now?

3. Favorite movie watched in 2009: Star Trek
There were a ton of big movies this summer, including Harry Potter (good) and Transformers (horrid), but none hit the sweet spot like Star Trek did for me. It was a tiny bit unexpected, to have such a classic series get such a well-made update. It's funny and exciting, and very well cast. A second viewing on New Year's Day confirmed it--this one's going to make it's way into my personal movie collection.

4. Favorite new experience of 2009: Kayaking
I haven't done it since, and well I haven't tried a whole lot of new things this year, but one of my favorite new things I tried this year was kayaking. Paddling with AB and Seeeeeester during our July trip to Salt Spring Island was a delightful and beautiful way to explore the terrain. It's something I'll probably actually try again.

5. Favorite travel destination of 2009: San Francisco, close second Port Angeles
I didn't think I'd ever really enjoy anything about California, seeing as my only exposure to it previously had been visiting my cousins in Los Angeles when I was 11. But I quite like the Bay Area, and San Francisco is a foodie kind of town and had great eats galore. My second favorite place to visit this year was Dr. C and Miguel's house in Port Angeles, but mostly because there was great company to be had there.

6. Favorite crafting project of 2009: Princess Leia doll
Made for Book Fiend's birthday last February, it was my first attempt at Alicia Paulson's Nutcracker Doll, and she came out fantastic. My only regret is that I didn't make a small blaster to tuck into her sash.

7. Favorite food of 2009: Honoré and Delancey in Ballard
Neighbor

(because all my posts seem to full of youtube video these days huh?)

Hey look it's 2010! We made it a whole decade into the new century, and we've managed to stay standing (though just barely). I've been thinking what a crapper of a year it's been, but am determined to think positively about the year ahead and what it potentially can bring. Other than actual New Year's Day when I seriously lounged in my jim jams all day with my family, ate junk food and watched Star Trek on blu-ray (totally blissful day, mind you), I've started the new year out pretty well. I cleaned up my sty, even cleaned out the fridge, woke up early, got some exercise, and cooked myself dinner. All things that I haven't done in months. And it felt good to live like a normal human being again.

This morning was the real test, back to work on a Monday--and I passed with flying colors: I woke up early and didn't feel sleepy, I started the day out with wake up crunches and some pushups (whoo I actually learned some things at Boot Camp this summer), actually ate breakfast, I got to work early (well, early for me, normal time for everyone else), and managed to make it half the morning without coffee. I started to lose it around 10:30am so I gave in to coffee, but one has to wean oneself away from daily drugs. My goal is to cut back to just tea and maybe coffee once a week. At lunchtime, I ate my beans and rice from home in the lunch room and not at my desk, and I even went for a walk afterwards in the pouring rain, and felt great coming back to my desk. No snacks today, lots of water instead. I'm hoping these are all things that just turn into normal habits and stop being blogworthy. I'm trying to think of them as small changes that take little effort when I do each one, but that in summation will turn me into a normal human being again.

There was a story on NPR this morning about Tim and Paul Daly, identical twins, one of whom was diagnosed with Type 2 diabetes, and the other who has been able to stave it off by exercising more and eating healthier. I was particularly captivated by the story because it's about making relatively small changes rather than having to take drastic measures, and it making the difference regardless. This is what I've struggled with lately, trying to motivate myself to make changes in my habits and finding myself falling for the get-rich-quick scheme (ie, Boot Camp during which I injured my achilles by pushing myself too hard too quickly). It's hard because I feel like I need to do an about-face in order to motivate myself, but in my case it's turning out to be too hard to get over the hump. So now, I'm trying the What About Bob Baby-Steps approach. One step at a time will get me to where I want to be, and it'll feel like just a normal thing. Not some big failure nor some grand Publisher's Clearinghouse sweepstake. Just, hopefully, turning into the mirror and seeing myself again.

Eat moderately = one step. Go to bed early = one step. Don't watch tv before bed = one step. Get a full night's sleep = one step. Wake up early = one step....

End this blog post right now so you can get to bed = one step...

More soon! :D

Oh and by the way: happy new year!

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Lady Susan said, on 1/5/2010 6:24:00 AM

Yeah! Sounds like you have made an awesome start to the new year! It is hard not to start out over ambitious. Also, it is about recommitting yourself again and again. (This is something I have had to do in regards to exercising during pregnancy. So hard.)

Keep up the good work, yola!

Rona said, on 1/5/2010 8:43:00 PM

Just think, with your new approach you'll soon be declaring, "I'm saaaaiiling!" Way to go.

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By: yola, on 12/31/2009
Blog: the orange chair (Login to Add to MyJacketFlap)
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On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me (actually, I gave to them...):

Brown butter cookies

A matching quilted blankie

A brown-haired little sister

A wooley red-haired whale

A matching elly-fanty

Two appliqued sea creatures

And a partridge made of felted sweaters!

Twas a busy sweatshop in this corner of the world, enough to give Santa a run for his money, and my apartment still looks like the craft fairy vomited thread, yarn, and fabric on every surface. But it was fun!

4 Comments on Twelve Days of Crafting, last added: 1/2/2010

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Lady Susan said, on 12/31/2009 11:51:00 AM

Baby F is going to love his little whale and onsies! I was going to ask you if you used a pattern for the whale and elephant? Did you knit and then felt?

You were definitely busy this Holiday season. I am thankful that I am a lucky recipient.

I have been working in a sweatshop as well these days. However, the blasted Roman shades are almost complete!

yola said, on 12/31/2009 1:19:00 PM

No, the stuffies and onesies were all free hand designed. The elly actually looks more like an anteater with big ears than an elephant. But he was a first go. And they were made with some carpet-like fabric from the Joanns clearance shelf, so don't think that I'm quite that industrious. Saw a Lotta Jansdotter baby sewing book you'd probably like: http://jansdotter.com/shop/item.php?serial=504

BunnyMaker said, on 12/31/2009 5:41:00 PM

LOVE the whale!!

Wild Rose said, on 1/2/2010 8:47:00 AM

wonderful creations!

thanks for the display box you made for us. it's lovely. :-)

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Posted on 12/20/2009
Blog: the orange chair (Login to Add to MyJacketFlap)
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Or for you too, if you're nice to me.

I spent most of the afternoon making these babies, which are so labor intensive that I only make them once a year. The dough is easy, it's the shaping with a spoon part that takes time. But they are dangerously delicious. This year I only had 5 jars of molding jam and about a tablespoon of good jam in my fridge, but I remembered the apple butter that Seeeeester and AB brought back from Indiana this fall and smushed some in and they were quite tasty. These are delicate little sandwich cookies though, so handle carefully and treat each one like the precious little egg that it is.

From Gourmet via Orangette: Brown Butter Spoon Cookies

Molly describes it so much better than I ever could, especially about what to expect when browning the butter. I will note though that I consistently get only about 2 dozen sandwiches (45 halves), whereas she gets more. Maybe my spoons are bigger than hers. Since these are sandwiches though and buttery and rich, feel free to make these fairly petite when you form them. I've tried sandwiching them with different kinds of jams and spreads, and the best ones were always strawberry or raspberry jam, but fill with whatever floats your boat. And enjoy.

More cookie favorites:

Flourless Peanut Butter Chocolate Cookies

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Toffee School Cookies

1 Comments on C is for Cookie and Cookie is for Me, last added: 12/23/2009

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Anonymous said, on 12/23/2009 4:01:00 PM

Ack! Wish I was there to enjoy them this year!

(Kristin)

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By: yola, on 12/16/2009
Blog: the orange chair (Login to Add to MyJacketFlap)
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So I made the mistake of going shopping while I was downtown after my volunteer gig this evening. Normally I'd be home by 8:30ish and all would be well, but I was trying to find that perfect gift for my aunt and uncle that I ended up catching the bus past 10pm. (And please don't tell my mother about this, she'd have a cow.)

Whilst waiting for the bus and on the ride home, I witnessed:

1. Altercation between some punk teenagers on 3rd and Pine = resulting in about a dozen police vehicles and an ambulance.
2. Major car collision in which both cars were on the completely opposite corner sidewalk and facing backwards (ie, they must have spun totally out of control) = 3 police vehicles
3. On my street, across from my cussing home, a police vehicle with a spotlight scanning the sidewalks for some nefarious criminal or wild rabid raccoons.

I panicked while approaching the steps to my apartment which faces toward the backyard and is away from the street; a stray (and black, I might add) cat jumped out of the bushes at me, and made me lose it completely; I made as much noise as possible and ran indoors and barricaded the door, where I will stay with the doors locked and shades drawn until summer and long days arrive again. (Once inside, the neighbor's car alarm or house alarm kept going off, which again freaked me out to no end.)

Dear Santa: I'd like some self-defense lessons, a big-ass pitbull, and some pepper spray please.

Normally I feel fine about being in the city, but today I really wished I lived in Happy Town USA; or that I'd stuck to my regular routine and just went home when I should have.

ps: don't worry, I will no longer be wandering the streets alone past 8:30pm.

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esheehan said, on 12/17/2009 9:54:00 PM

Was it all worth it? Did you get the gift for your aunt and uncle? :) That does sound like a scary night, glad you made it through though!!

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By: yola, on 12/14/2009
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0 Comments on Sometimes I wish I could growl at you like this as of 12/15/2009 1:53:00 AM

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By: yola, on 12/12/2009
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A short documentary on the making of one of my favorite albums, Together Alone - Crowded House. (YouTube, I love you!)

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By: yola, on 12/9/2009
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0 Comments on Brrrrrrrrrr! as of 12/9/2009 1:55:00 AM

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Posted on 12/9/2009
Blog: the orange chair (Login to Add to MyJacketFlap)
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My brother's turning a hugely old number on Saturday (just kidding--hi Brother, happy birthday!), which of course makes me think of 80's music. Because as we know, my brother makes me think of music from the 80s: Huey Lewis, U2, REM, Crowded House, The Police, Pet Shop Boys, Rick Astley, Hall and Oates and... Level 42 - Something About You from 1986:



Also check out the fabulous Lessons in Love.

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BunnyMaker said, on 12/12/2009 6:26:00 PM

Happy B-day, Yola's bro! :)

"Something About You" was and is one of my favorite 80s songs and videos. The video actually kinda creeped me out (and still creeps me out a little)... the scary clown/devil guy... *shiver*. Nevertheless, it gets your attention, and the song is catchy, too!

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By: yola, on 11/18/2009
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Okay, obviously I didn't peruse the interwebz enough today. Because then I stumbled on this fantastic gem:


Also check out their cover of Shaft and other vids, they're pretty entertaining.

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